Forbes Magazine, September 1999, When the Menu Leaves a Bad Taste

 

Food Arts

september 1999

when the menu leaves a bad taste

All those scribblings about the edibles on a menu can be confusing, annoying or just plain dumb.

Consider Sauted Shrimps.  I always think of three unfortunate little guys in a huge iron pan, clamoring to get free.  Or how about that related perfect oxymoron, Jumbo Shrimp?

Then there’s creamless soup.  In this age of broth and essence, do I really need a list of what isn’t in my food?  Potato-less Pizza.  Yak-less ice cream.  It’s so left-over puritan American to consider the not.

And  I wonder about vegetarian lasagna.  I ponder that poor statistical woman having a baby every three minutes somewhere in the world, and begin to compare her to some jinxed veggie guy who gets regularly ground and stuffed between pasta sheets and smothered by melted cheese. Who is this poor vegetarian?   Nobody ever orders the poultry platter.  They order the chicken.  So why don’t we call our green things by name?

Speaking of chicken, I admit I acquiesce to the use of the term Free Range Chicken, but it still makes me think of errant birds, leaping over creeks, somewhere out in the wild, wild West.

Oh, and why, prey tell, would anyone find the term Lump Crab appealing?   And do those newly popular Peaky Toe Crab have (or make) toe jam?

Then there are “quotes” around “special” “words.”  Geeze.  Aren’t quotes supposed to be used to give other sources credit for origin, as opposed to being a wink and a nudge by way of punctuation?

Truth is, the words describing dishes should offer as much protection as seduction.   These days the fashion in menu writing has moved  towards simplicity, which is a welcome relief from the days of pedigreed foods stuffs.  It got pretty exhausting knowing where every leaf and beery grew and exactly which farm raised every fatted critter.  But then things got a lot more complicated.